Santorini

Against the backdrop of Santorini

Destination/Property Name: Cave Suite Oia, Santorini

Room Type: Private Villa

Number of Guests: I, me, myself.

Check In: 3rd December 2019

Check Out: 4th December 2019 (cruel joke to play on myself thinking that 24 hours will be enough to experience Greek villa life)

Special Occasion: Bringing-in my 29th Birthday in extravagant panache!

Amenities: Private Pool, Outdoor Hot Tub, Indoor Jacuzzi, fully equipped kitchenette

Breakfast Included: After all this, one would certainly hope so!

Attractions Nearby (that were least priority given the hedonistic nature of this choice of destination): Naval Museum of Oia, Thera Volcano

Closest Airports: Santorini International Airport – 11 miles away that is able to serve only 6 civilian planes (read: Private Jets) at the same time.

Review:

Santorini is arguably one of the most famous Greek islands known for its spectacular landscape, thousand foot cliffs and breathtaking views of the glittering Aegean Sea. Oia is located in the northwestern tip of Santorini and is widely recognized for its indescribably stupendous sunset, even donning the title of – The Best Sunset in the World. Now I know many will come at me with their versions of the ‘Best Sunset of the World’, and lest this gradual comradery we have built since the last few months get messy – I will say that everyone’s version of a best sunset is different, gorgeous and unrivaled!

Oia (pronounced ‘ee-yah’) is noted for its most photographed, iconic blue domes which are actually the churches of Agios Spiridonas (Saint Spyridon) and Anasteseos (the Church of the Resurrection). And now, drum roll, please … the villa I chose (how easily those words rolled off my tongue!) was situated right between these two blue domes – the very domes that form an integral part of most postcards you receive when someone visits Greece, let alone Oia!

The Iconic Two Blue Domes of Santorini
The Iconic Two Blue Domes of Santorini
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved
Oia's sunset point
Sunset in Oia
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved

Simos, the owner of the villa had arranged for a Taxi to pick me up from the port and drive me to the base of the hill on which the villa was situated. Anastasia, the vivacious manager welcomed me as I got off the taxi and we chatted animatedly. Much like how people argue about who should pay the bill at a restaurant, we argued as to who will carry my suitcase (a carry-on, I didn’t intend to pay Delta any more than I really needed to) up the hill. After 3 and a half minutes of the taxi driver looking at us wondering how polite two humans could be, Anastasia insisted that she will help with the suitcase. I’m glad I gave in because 2 minutes into climbing that hill, I was panting profusely and wondered what my lung capacity is like which made me think of work and FEV1 values on spirometry …yikes! We trudged up the hill patiently and after a few more minutes, pure amazement took over sheer exhaustion when we finally reached the villa. With miles and miles of the Aegean sea, views of the caldera (large depression formed when a volcano erupts and collapses) thrown in for good measure and the blue domes towering right in front of my eyes – this was and still remains one of the most incredibly stunning views I have ever come across!

Cave Suite Oia
Cave Suite Oia – a Private Villa in Santorini
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved

I was spellbound as she gave me a tour of the villa that was home for less than 24 hours. I looked around and almost expected my Dad to be there, given his nebulous comments about showing up at the Villa to surprise me! No, he wasn’t there or hey – did I just give him the wrong dates of my stay! As the name suggests, the entire villa had a cave feel – monstrously ancient in some parts, shadowy in others, roughly oblong, low ceilinged in some places, arched and had light switches in hollowed out nooks. It was lavishly furnished with tasteful décor and had everything I could possibly ask for including a ginormous Jacuzzi that I could have done laps in if I really wanted to better my freestyle qualifying time (Go Blue Jays!)

Inside the cave suite
The cave interiors!
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved
The Kitchenette in the Cave Suite
The Kitchenette in the Cave Suite
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved

That evening, after carefully un-packing the one carry-on bag and one backpack I had into various parts of the villa, in the hopes of invoking a feeling of home, I walked through the winding white stoned paths, by fancy stores to the vantage sunset point. There were more selfie sticks per square foot than a shop would possibly stock. Loud voices in various languages all exclaiming at what they were witnessing. All the single folk (like me) were waiting for people to finish getting their pictures hoping they would be kind enough to do us a favor. I had a fleeting visual of the movie – the Sisterhood of Travelling Pants 2 – which led me to Rory Gilmore of course and what her reasoning could possibly be not to marry Logan Huntzberger! Yes, that question still plagues my mind.

Apart from the sunset, something else or rather someone else caught my eye. At 6 feet and 4 inches, there was this incredibly handsome guy at the edge of the cliff, who by the looks of it had mastered the art of taking selfies. We ended up chatting and of course we put his skills of photo taking to use! Wadie was a solo traveler himself and had traveled to several other countries before he set foot in Greece. Psuedo-Adonis and I decided to explore Oia, confidant that we will easily find our way. Little did we know that the path leading to the town was almost a maze – so after getting lost a few times (and my mind filled with voices of all parent-like concerns that I’ve heard over the many years: don’t go with a stranger anywhere, least of all in the dark, while you are on a solo trip, especially on an island, somewhere in Greece!), we finally reached Minerali, a boutique filled with Santorini’s finest threads.

© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved

Wanting to spend more time in the villa (yes, by myself), I decided to pick up dinner and head home. Now if Santorini is extraordinary and stunning in daylight, it is equally magnificent at night. All you can see are lit-up pools, tubs on terraces and you know that the Aegean is a stone’s throw away. The kitchenette was fully stocked with crockery and cutlery and I even found a bottle of Ampelomythos dry white wine they had left since it was my birthday the next day!

After dinner, the phone started buzzing and thus began the Greek birthday – calls, messages, voice notes from friends and family. While some had created pre-made personalized videos that were delivered to my Inbox at 12am – Greek time, IST and EST(yes, she is that awesome!), some had sent cards that were to be opened at 12am (which perfectly added to my intrigue knowing there will be some more celebration when I get home!). I slept that night with a warm, fuzzy feeling and a heart full of joy!

Oia by night
Heading back to my villa – the illuminated blue outdoor tub and the patio visible – was my not-so-humble abode!
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved
Inside the Villa
You know you are at the right place when you see this coffee table book!
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved

Being a cave suite, it was dark when I woke up next morning – yet, through the entrance and one window of the kitchenette, I could see tiny rays of sunshine trying to make their way in. Throwing on a plush Turkish bathrobe, I decided to spend some quiet time in the outdoor tub on my terrace, just to process all the good things happening in life. You will pardon me if I can’t fully describe how it feels to be in a hot tub, in a villa in Santorini, watching the sunrise over the Aegean in pin drop silence. It was then I learnt that tourists do not have the ability to read signs that say – ‘Private Property’. As I was luxuriously unwinding in the tepid waters, I see tourists just a few feet away from me, who had the gall to open the little gate that separates the villa from the stony road. Having been momentarily disturbed and also perturbed by this interruption, I yell out sternly saying – ‘Hey, this is Private Property!!’. I would have engaged in a more direct confrontation but I had to remember I was quite scarcely clad, so to speak! Turns out that people pay $70 to visit a particular spot right outside the villa, since it is situated between the two famous blue domes. After virtually chasing the tourists away, I had cats who invaded my privacy too. After what seemed like many hours (post the tourist prohibition scheme and the cat debarring), I came back to the villa, spoke to more friends and family and then proceeded to draw me a bath in the Jacuzzi. With effervescent bath salts and the luxurious nature of the bath, I enjoyed the redolence of the lavender products.

View as I step out of the villa
My view at 7 am when I stepped out, ready to head to the outdoor tub on the terrace
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved
All sorts of perfect!
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved
Watching the sunrise in Oia
Watching the sunrise from the outdoor hot tub
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved

Breakfast was ready for me at a café nearby and I got to walk the streets again, this time stopping to pick up some curios at the ridiculously overpriced stores. After eating the sumptuous breakfast watching the ships go by and simultaneously thinking about brushing up my facts about Aristotle Onassis, I headed back to the villa to pack. In about 10 minutes I heard someone knock on the door – and there was Anastasia, carrying a large, heavenly cupcake with a candle on it! Say what?! Turns out my friend had coordinated with Anastasia to ensure that I cut a cake on my birthday! I’ve said it before – I do have the most wonderful of friends!

Breakfast at a Cafe nearby
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved
View of Oia
So long, Oia!
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved

It was time to bid adieu to Oia, As much as I loved the ferry rides all along, I had to fly back to Athens since the ferry ride would have taken me about 8 hours from Santorini and I had an early morning flight the next day. The taxi dropped me to the Santorini International Airport where I was probably the only one at the gate. As we took off, I thanked the Lord for making all of this happen and using Instagram hashtags in my mind – I certainly was #grateful, #blessed, #thankful that this trip panned out the way it did and to have such incredibly loving people in my life. Always!

The Fine Print: Santorini marked the last leg of this Greek adventure. I flew back to Athens, then to Paris and finally to Cincinnati. My first solo trip started with feelings of resfeber, moved to excitement and finally ended with content. I was constantly struck by moments of sonder.

Now that we have said goodbye* to Greece, I’ll try to mix things up a bit and perhaps chronicle my culinary adventures that have taken place over the last few home-bound months!

For now – *Antío sas!

Athens

Title: A 3-day peregrination through the ancient, historic capital of Greece resulting in a gratifying first ever solo trip that confirmed the presence of a wanderlust gene.

Author Information: Priyanka Desirazu (in person) along with closest friends and family (in spirit)*

*Worry not, most of them are still alive, hale and hearty.

Introduction:

One of the most enjoyable components of travelling is planning the trip, which I initiated about 2 months prior to boarding the Delta flight from Cincinnati (CVG) to Athens (ATH), via a harrowed transit in Paris (CDG). It also does not help that from a distance, CDG and CVG look awfully similar on the boarding pass. Moving on, for those folks who believe that a 2 hour transit time is adequate, I would un-equivocally rethink that seemingly easy option given the perpetually chaotic Charles De Gaulle airport and also the mandatory 15 minutes needed to pick up a delectable macaroon at Ladurée in Terminal 2. Trust me, this makes your Air France connecting flight far more bearable, especially if you are stuck in Seat 24F that won’t recline and the steward gives you a nice helping of – “I’m sorry, we have run out of vegetarian food”.

If you are a relatively detailed planner, you will have a rather good sense of the sights you want to see, why you want to see them, the best way to get to these said sights and a little room for the unexpected. The latter, to me, is far more exciting because it is entirely un-predictable. I for one, ended up in the midst of Monastiraki square (after taking an albeit circuitous route down from the Acropolis) and was surrounded by the most affectionate of vendors, each bringing me their home-made baklava! My blueprint included Athens (enveloped in history everywhere), the island of Paros (known for its idyllic whitewashed buildings with blue domes and bougainvillea), the island of Naxos (known for its magnificent sunsets) and finally the island of Santorini where I brought-in my birthday in the most exotic of villas facing the Aegean Sea! I was in Greece during the end of November which translated to an off-season slash in air ticket prices, a quieter more relaxed time in Greece minus the hordes of tourists and virtually no lines at the museums. The option of buying an overpriced “Skip the Line” ticket is not even applicable.

In this particular article, I’m chronicling my time in just Athens where I spent 2 and a half days completely absorbed in the city’s vast arena of historical science. My Mom, who spent her entire adult life studying history and archaeological sciences would have been rather proud! My Dad certainly was, having visited Athens a number of times and officially taking over the reins of explaining History to me like a story, right from when I was in the 5th standard! When traveling in Athens, I would definitely recommend clutching your bag, as you would a baby and hold on to dear life since crime rates are soaring and people have come up with ingenious ways of stealing from fellow humans.

View from the top most point of the Acropolis
View of Athens from the top most point of the Acropolis, physically climbable!
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved

Materials and Methods:

My go-to for any and all accommodations throughout the trip was Booking.com. The strategically situated Niche Hotel Athens is walking distance to most of the important sights in Athens and has a magnificent view of the Acropolis. It is certainly comfort, rejuvenation and security in accommodation. The hotel graciously provided a no-charge pick-up from the Athens International Airport which is about 30 kms (18 miles) from this beautiful 4-star boutique getaway. On the ride to the hotel, I would suggest avoiding thinking about the dazzling ocean views that spring to mind when someone says Greece because it is quite the contrary. I could not sleep much the first night, in anticipation of the Greek Gods I would meet – figuratively at the temples of course and hopefully some stunning looking men walking around the town dressed in all white! The images we have, I tell you – such tomfoolery!

View of the Parthenon at night
View from the hotel: My first sighting of the Parthenon atop the majestic Acropolis of Athens! Seeing this for the first time got my heart racing!
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved

After unfolding the eonian layers of the map that the concierge provided, I called my Dad and got a refresher course on Timelines of Greek History. It is tremendously helpful to know the chronology of events because it helps you place sights you see in a mental logbook. In the next few days, I intended to visit the Acropolis and its museum, the temples of Zeus and Athena-Nike, the Theatre of Dionysus Eleuthereus, the National Archeological Museum, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus amphitheater, the Parthenon, Plaka district, the Ancient Agora of Athens and Museum, Hadrian’s arch, the Hellenic parliament (to witness the Changing of the Guard) and the Panatheniac stadium. These links cater to those category of people who insist on researching the place thoroughly before stepping foot. I am a keen member of the very same comprehensive species!

Changing of Guard
Changing of the Guard at the Hellenic Parliament
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved
The Parthenon
The Parthenon
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Amphitheatre
Odeon of Herodes Atticus
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved

Results:

Of course, I began my exploration with something not on the aforementioned list! On the day I landed in Athens, after settling into the comforts of the Niche hotel, I ventured out just to find my bearings and came across the Church Agia Fotini Illissos – a Greek orthodox church built in 1872 is one of the oldest churches in Athens, situated near the temple of Zeus. Fotini is the famous ‘Samaritan Woman at the Well’ who gave Jesus a cup of water as he was travelling through Sychar. Day 1 was spent circumnavigating the solid element of history we call the Acropolis: a trek up to the glorious Odeon of Herodes Atticus – Athens’ historical open air theatre, the Theatre of Dionysus – Greek God of Drama and considered to be the world’s first theatre, the Erectheion (also called the old temple of Athena, dedicated to Athena and Poseidon). The Parthenon with its 8×17 column arrangement is a thing of beauty even in its stages of restoration. Monastiraki is the one of the most charming towns I’ve visited, laced with character. In particular Melissinos Art – a crossroad of poetry, art and ancient Greek craftsmanship of sandal making. Stavros, a poet and sandal-maker has crafted footwear for the top names in Showbiz across the world.

Church Agia Fotini
An idyllic landscape – church (Agia Fotini Illissos) by the riverbed adjacent to a temple.
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved
Steps leading to Kallirois Street
Up the steps and you are at the busy Kallirois street.
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved

Speaking as a vegetarian who is allergic to onion, I can safely say that there are abundant food options – the pita bread with Tzatziki at Liondi is one the best I’ve ever tasted! Even though the €9.50 tag for a Greek Salad is pricey, Mani Mani has an excellent, healthy selection. I highly recommend getting a side of Saganaki at the Ydria Café and a vegetable Souvlaki at Souvlaki Leivadia. I came across this particular place when I decided to check out the Athens Metro (again, bag worn as a life jacket) and rode it from the Acropolis Metro station to Omonia (I’m fairly certain I missed the NH3 symbol somewhere on that station board, however did not miss the accompanying smell). I was quite astonished to see the number of Indian restaurants in a 1 km radius at the vicinity of the Acropolis – I have to admit that I stepped into Indian Haveli just to assuage myself that there is no way this restaurant could have Jain options – no way in Athens – turns out, I was more than wrong!

Day – 2 saw me visiting the Temple of Zeus (King of Gods) and the Museum of Ancient Agora (Agora being a central gathering place for all citizens). A quirky coconut drink snack in the District of Plaka was a fun addition to this splendid day and the beautiful sounds of the hand-pan (instrument native to Switzerland) is still ringing in my ears! One can spend almost an entire day at the National Archeological Museum discovering artifacts from pre-history to late antiquity.

A coconut drink-snack
A refreshing Coconut drink-snack
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved
Cafe on a Hill
Location Location Location! Came across this lovely café on the hill as I made my way down from the Acropolis to Plaka district, with a fleeting view of the Temple of Athena-Nike up top.
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved
Museum of Ancient Agora
Museum of the Ancient Agora
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved

Discussion:

Athens was a very special experience – from meeting some lovely locals, all of whom exuded abundant kindness to watching the Changing of Guard (with their accouterments in splendid glory) at the Hellenic parliament in Syntagma Square. From stunning modern cityscapes to something as ancient as the Panatheniac stadium (made completely out of marble), being in this city re-iterated the fact that positivity is contagious. No matter what the economy has been in Greece over the last decade, it is the people and their culture that makes you want to keep visiting this historical gem! And as much as I enjoyed a solo trip, I realized that sharing these moments as they happen, with my friends and family in different countries made me the happiest!

Panatheniac Stadiumm
Panatheniac Stadium – The only stadium in the world built entirely out of marble.
© 2019 Priyanka Desirazu All Rights Reserved

Acknowledgements:

I have fond memories of Stavros and his wife Chrisse, owners of a lovely bakery in Athens. I walked in there thinking I’ll pick up something to-go but ended up chatting with them for about an hour! Stavros has a keen interest in Chess and until this day, he reminds me of how many championships Vishwanathan Anand has won!

Supplementary Materials: My last night in Athens was mildly bitter-sweet. On one hand, I was not ready to close my real history book; on the other hand, I was excited to experience the Greek island life! I took a cab from Niche to the Port of Piraeus – all ready to board my ferry to Paros! Watch out for the next article where I talk about my time on the islands of Paros and Naxos.